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binks info

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  • #5506
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Is there anywhere out here that I could get a manual on using one of the binks air stripers. I have came across one recently and don’t know anything about it. It runs great and holds pressure, but I put some water in the pot just to see if it would spray and nothing but air comes out. Ideas and input welcome. I am afraid to try paint in it untill I get it to work.

    Thanks,

    J.R.

    #6151

    Hello Sealcoat.
    I am sorry for the delay.
    I’ve used a “Conventional” for 17 years. Love it. Maybe Jim at http://www.jclequipment.com has one.
    That said…we can talk. I still have mine. I don’t use it as much any more. But it’s totally kept up and updated.
    I still love it.
    Next…you mentioned Binks. I’ve had a Binks 21 too.
    Now…make sure the Pet Cock Valve just at the botton of the tank is closed.
    Bleed all air.
    Disconnect the paint line at the GUN.
    Next…get pressure on the paint tank. I know you have water in it.
    Point the Paint Line away and into a bucket.
    SLOWLY open the Pet Cock Valve at the bottom of the tank. Water should come flying through the line. Then shut it off.
    If this happens…we now know that water is reaching the gun…and I would suspect that the gun is either malfunctioning or clogged.
    OR…the air actuator is not allowing the gun to open.
    One thing at a time…
    Let me know.
    Dan
    P.S. I have a (3) Part Series on these machine on my site too.
    Let me know.

    #6163
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Thanks for responding…I took the striper over to a friend at our local municipality and he got me straight. Turns out that I wasn’t getting enough pressure to the paint tank. It was below 20 psi and now I am in the 30 psi range. Much better, but I have still only used water so far. What kind of pressures should I be seeing on the atomizer guage? Right now I am seeing about 45 psi and the water comes out really good…maybe too good. It looks like it might actually splatter the paint. Also what kind of distance should the nozzle be from the ground to create a 4 inch line? BTW, thanks for the input.

    #6164

    Hello SS
    …yes…the pressure on the tank is good at 30…but…you’re right…that’s water.
    SO…30 may work pushing paint also…but don’t be afraid to go to 40.
    ( If you talk to Jim at JCL…he is a big fan of 40 and 40. )
    Next…on the Atomizer…it’s what ever it takes.
    I’m usually around 40 lbs also. But…I’m not afraid to go to 50…and…when I spray stencils…sometimes 55.
    I may also “up” the pressure on the stencils…I’m pushing Paint through a small diameter hose and farther…but try it first before you just increase pressure.
    Next…if ti does come out “splatter”…two things…
    1) Increase the Atomizer to break those LARGE droplets of paint…into smaller droplets of paint…that we can now call “SPRAY”!
    OR…OR…OR…
    2) Add a splash of appropriate “thinner”…either water for Latex…or Mineral Spirits for Alkyd = “Oil” based paint.
    Again…if “thin” water can be turned into a spray using air pressure…then so can paint…but…paint is thicker…so again…either add more Atomizing Pressure…or “thin” = “reduce” = “cut” the paint. Read the label…some Paint MFG’s allow up to 20%. Some City workers add 50%…!…I only say a splash. This allows the paint molecules to relax and let go of each other so the Air Atomizer can do it’s job.
    Bottom line…start at 30 and 30. Next…add a splash…try it again…add one more splash…try it again…next…up it to 30 and 40…try it again…then 30 and 45…try it again… One thing at a time. You’ll get the feel of it.
    Next…put a piece of plastic or cardboard…on the ground…like a stencil. Spray a test shot onto the plastic…or cardboard. Measure it. I generally have around 5″ lines. If it’s too wide…lower the gun a half an inch. Try it again. My gun is about 5″ off the ground. Start there…but don’t be afraid to adjust.
    Let me know.
    Dan

    #6170
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Thanks for the info I am almost there. I got a diagram on the binks 21 gun from their website and feel a little more comfortable with it. Now my problem seems to be leaking from the nozzle…it didn’t do it at first but now it is. I have taken the needle out and adjusted it a few ways up and down, but it still leaks. The needle is clean and so is the fluid nozzle. Any ideas? Am I not holding my mouth right or what? LOL!

    #6171

    Hey SS
    …yep…and…you have to stick your RIGHT pinky finger out too.
    Seriously…couple things…
    1) These guns come as a set…kinda…
    …here’s what I mean…INSIDE them…
    There is the Needle…a certain diameter…and a certain point at the end.
    Then…there is the Fluid Nozzle…which is inside the Fluid CAP.
    …again…(3) parts to the “assembly”…
    Now…back to the Needle…which slams into the “certain sized” orifice, inside the Fluid Nozzle…( forget the cap right now…)
    1) If it is a matched set…the taper of the Needle’s tip will fit perfectly into the Orifice of the Fluid Nozzle.
    …so I’m asking…was it a new set?…hoping this would disallow any wrong parts with wrong parts. They’re probably fine…because it doesn’t happen always.
    Next…you’ve checked properly…you checked to see if there was a small dog hair on the tip…prohibiting it from slamming into the Orifice…tight enough and at the right “matching” taper…to stop paint flow.
    And…you found nothing…crap…I wish you would have!
    Next…these are little things I’d try…because those two items are the only possible flaws…which is what I like about my Conventional = simple.
    …so again…little things…
    1) My Right Side Air Pressure Gage is around 40 lbs. That amount of air at that pressure serves 2 purposes…
    A) Atomize the paint at the Fluid Nozzle…
    B) Also…to lift and set the Needle.
    If…and again…if…your pressure is at 30 lbs…bump it to 35 Lbs. Maybe that will help.
    Next…I remember when I had a tip that leaked…I freaked…BUT…it was two drops on a 40 car parking lot.
    Don’t tell anyone what I’m about to say…after I got my feet wet…two drops didn’t bother me at all. The lot was done and pretty…don’t look back.
    So…my question is this…how much of a leak? Is it a “trail”…from the top of one line to the bottom of the next? Or…two small droplets?
    Last…when I do have a small piece of something…trying to come through the line…and either slowing paint or even clogging it…lift the QAW = “Quick as A Wink” = THE TRIGGER…! up and down…FIVE times as fast as you can…ONOFFONOFFONOFFONOFF…! That always cleared my debris…maybe it’ll help seat the tip or push through the crap that we may have missed…during cleaning.
    Last…help me here…I’ve re-read the posts…are you still experimenting with water?…or have you moved to paint?
    Next…you mentioned a Diaphragm on a Binks. Unless I’m out dated…the Diaphragm is on the Kelly and the Binks has none. OK…it has one that looks like a mushroom at the top…the Kelly has one that looks like a vertical Frisbee.
    AND…the “Low Pressure Kelly Diaphragm” will need the (3) way valve moved up and down…repeatedly. Then stripe with Oil Based Paint….while the Binks 21…will only have to have the (3) valve UP and then just leave it alone. Go stripe your brains out…with water based paint.
    These two bits of info will not have anything to do with trouble shooting the dripping.
    But…let me know.
    Dan

    #6175
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    no, no a diagram…a drawing….I am using paint now with some leakage still. What kind of sharpness to the edge of the line can I expect? Most I see in parking lots are pretty crisp. My lines are fuzzy out on the edge and better towards the middle. Thanks for all the input.

    #6177

    SS
    The “crisp” lines are shot from an Airless Machine.
    The Converntionals will have 1/4″ if “fuzzy” at the edges…but…there is no “tapering” to a good amount in the middle. In other words…it’ll be an evenly dispersed line…all the way across.
    Next…I have “Air Curtains” on mine…see my Video…at me site. These keep the edges more crisp.
    NEXT…think this through…if there’s enough AIR to break up the LIQUID = paint…into SPRAY…good.
    BUT…if the BALANCE between the paint and air is mis-matched…then the paint will WIN.
    In other words…you’ll have a lot down the middle and not enough all the way across the width of the line.
    So…try “upping” the Air a little to dispense the paint film evenly.
    NOW…THINK IN REVERSE…if…again…if the “balance” between the air and paint is mis-matched and the AIR is winning…this is what the line will look like = think this through…the AIR will BLAST through the paint…splitting it like the RED SEA. In other words…VERY thin down the middle ONE INCH and much more paint along the edges. Get it? Don’t let the AIR blast so hard it drills through the paint stream…AND…don’t let the paint “win” the power struggle by putting MOST of the paint down the middle of the stripe.
    Last…it should and can be 1/4″ fuzzy edges…sharpened by Air Curtains…and an evenly distributed amount of paint EVERY place els…along the width of the line.
    So…either play with the Air pressure to the gun = Right Hand Gage…or add a splash of the appropriate “thinner”…to make the paint do what YOU want it to.
    Make sense?
    Dan
    P.S. I’m headin’ out…I’ll check back later. And…SS…you’re close to getting it. Don’t quit.

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