Change from Latex to Alkyd ?

[Anonymous]

How do you make the change? Can the water be flushed out with paint thinner in one step?

[Girish C. Dubey, President STAR, INC.]

Hello Stripe Guy 2
…Yep.
Here’s how I went about it…
Be careful…but I allowed my pump to run a little dry. Don’t allow that for days on end. Just enough to force the small amount of water, still inside the system, to pump out. Then, I just started sucking Oil Based Paint. The paint came through…I was good to go. It can be that easy. I’m glad you’re asking…continue to be someone who wants to know if there’s something he’s missing or if there’s some way to accomplish something more easily…but…here?…you’re good to go too.
Another example is this; I sent my machine into the shop. I got it back…and they ran Kerosene through it. I either forgot or didn’t think about it…I just stuck my siphon tube into the water based paint and it began pushing the RED…!… Kerosene into my other water bucket. Oh well. My point here is this…you don’t really have to “evacuate” to the state of “vacuum” the inside of your machine before introducing Oil based…from Latex…or vice versa. I’m fine. My machine is fine…I did have to dispose of the Kerosene differently than disposing to good ol’ water. But…it’s all good.
Last…keep an eye out for the Thinner when you’re switching. You ‘ll see it. Let go of the trigger…or quickly switch to spraying into a different bucket…keeping the water and Thinner separate. That way…disposal may be easier…and you might be able to re-use the Thinner sometime.
How’s that?
I hope I helped.
Dan
P.S. If this is the first you and I have spoken…go to my site…take 10% off any stencil. Keep in touch.
Dan

[Anonymous]

This isn’t quite in line with the topic, but I do have a question. I have been using latex for previous jobs and have gotten the hang of it. I have been asked to quote a much larger job than I’ve done to date.

this job has over 16,000 feet of white, 5,000 feet of yellow, and 13 handicap places. I’m in South Dakota, and the only stipulation is that the job be finished before the snow flies, which, I’m betting will be mid October, this year. What are the major differences between shooting latex and oil, other than cleanup? Would the transition be easy?

I work alone. There won’t be any background to the handicap stencils, but I’m betting that I may have to black out the old one, as the same company has done the job previously. I’ll drive down next Monday or Tuesday to look at it. Would I be better off going to a larger spray tip? I’m not the fastest at painting, for sure yet, and still put a piece of shingle on each start line. I may be getting too perfect, but this one, has over 1300 parking spaces. I would need to move a little quicker. It is 50 miles from here, so could anyone, or everyone that works alone, shoot me an estimate on how much time they would take?

Thanks.
Randy

[Girish C. Dubey, President STAR, INC.]

Hello Randy
YES…! …how’s that?
The transition is easy. I love the oil based paints. I wish we could still use them in Ohio.
BUT…to save the earth…we outlawed them and invented Acetone. ( OK…I’m done with that… )
Next…I never did change out the tip either.
Next…I’ve only sprayed oil from my airless a few times…but again…it all went well. Same stuff. Same routine.
Next…the cleaning agent will be declared on the can…but it’s probably Mineral Spirits which is the same thing as Paint Thinner.
That said…check the cans…etc.
You’ll probably need 2-4 gallons to clean it well.
That said…if the job lapses over a few days…you don’t necessarily need to clean it out at the end of the day.
In other words…if you’re spraying Yellow…and the day ends…then just shut it down…pack up and go home.
The next day…if you’re starting with Yellow again…just unpack and fire it up.
Next…I do turn the tip sideways = 90 degrees. I think, in my puny mind, that this keeps all air from the system.
I know the top of the can may be semi open …but…it’s still ok…especially just over night.
Next…I’ve let mine sit for days.
Bottom line here…this will save you time in cleaning…in priming…and certainly in using up costly Mineral Spirits…which you can somewhat re-use…and…you won’t have as much waste to dispose of.
Randy…it’s all the same. You’ll like the oil.
Next…on the H/Cs…if you’re going to “Black then out”…use Blue…it’s prettier.
Snap a base line…put your stencil down…trace around it…slide it aside…hand roll the blue “block”…let it dry…put your stencil back on top of the Blue Block…spray the color that’s in the gun…done.
As far as time…it doesn’t matter. If I like you and your price is fair and you tell me 4 trips…after hours…I’d hire you.
If the other guy says 1 trip…I don’t really care. I’m not hiring a striper…or a machine…I’m hiring you.
BUT…I can re-stripe 10K in an evening…if all the stars are aligned…
But figure walking…one stall…a minute…? 1300 stalls…?…1300 minutes…?…21 hours…2 days…3 days…
Here’s how I’d present it; “I’ll make sure the lines are the same length. I’ll make sure they’re straight. It’ll take two nights…maybe three. I’ll finish up and send an Invoice.”
Next…if the lines are “lined up”…it may take less time. If there’s a bunch of stenciling…if there’s a bunch of “head In” stalls…a few things make a difference.
Last…if you feel more comfortable saying 3 nights…or 3 afternoons…depends on when they close…say 3.
Take your time. Break up the job into manageable sections…and think of it as a few smaller jobs…just stuck together.
You’ll do fine.
After you get the job…put the oil based into the gun. Spray a line at the shop…then make sure the paint won’t splash around too much…but then head for the job. That way, you’ll feel more comfortable starting.
I hope I helped.
OH…I’ll be giving a 90 minute class at the Memphis TN Pavement Expo. Attend…if you can. …love to shake your hand.
Keep in touch.
Dan

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