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Hello Ace
Friend, I know of (3) “Lasers”.
1) The one you’re talking about, I believe Titan has. It clips onto the vertical post of an airless machine. Aim it out in front of the gun, right onto your snapped chalk line. Some buy (2). The second is aimed straight down below the gun to designate where to start and where to stop. ( Where to pull the trigger and when to let go. )
2) The other is a unit that bolts on the handle bars. It shows a beam that is aimed at a box, perhaps 96′ away, perhaps 156′ away. The idea here is that if the beam is inside the target box, and you begin spraying, and, while moving forward, you keep the laser inside that target box, the line will be straight. You’ll need to look down to know when you start and stop spraying.
3) This other laser is a variation of the 2nd. It swivels. When your striper dips into a swale, this laser will swivel, remaining vertical.Hello Patrick
How are you?
Patrick, your post wasn’t affixed to any topic.
Bottom line…what topic do you need help with?
Let me know.
Thanks.
DanHello Friend
First…thanks for the post.
Next…reach out to those individuals who have a self standing building where the owner is inside.
How’s that?
I solicited a Pizza place. 20 lines.
I also solicited a Realty office. 7 lines.
How about places of worship?
How about “Mom and Pop” burger joints, donut shops…anything other than a franchise.
( Again…self standing building where the owner…or at least the decision maker is inside. )
One of my first jobs was a Realty Office. 7 lines. I walked inside and said; can I re stripe your lot? I have a real striping machine. Not an upside down spray can. I show up after hours and when you show up tomorrow, it’ll be done. 75.00.
First…they all looked at each other and chuckled. Then one guy said YES…! I said; Thanks. I’ll take care of it. ( Then I left. )
It was 27 years ago.
Friend…go find that building.
And…to be clear…this is what I call the; “Retail Market”…as opposed to the; “Commercial Market”.
Yes, the Commercial Market has every right to expect you to “follow” their crew.
Bottom line…stay “Retail”.
How’s that?
Friend, I hope I helped.
Let me know.
DanHello Charles
First…thanks for the post.
Next…I use White. I have a couple of reasons.
First…yes…you can see it on concrete. No problems there.
Next…when you spray over a color like blue or red…that color will bleed through. I know that sounds minor but…you’ll see it. You’ll have a nice, white 4″ line…and a real pretty, skinny blue line that bled through.
Next…the last reason is mine…all mine…color is dye. It split my fingertips…!
I was out one day. I stopped at a small hardware store and bought “half moon” blue chalk. After a while my fingertips split…no big deal…but it was like paper cuts in my finger prints. I’m not sure of it was the dye…all is well.
Friend…I use white.
How’s all that?
I hope helped.
Let me know.
DanHey Brad
Here’s my technical answer…who knows…!
All is well. Let that sleeping dog alone.
That said…the bigger pressure can be a friend. I’ve sprayed at 3300. That’s over a rough road…riding…321 tip.
Next…I do think that a little water allows the paint to “break up” a little better too.
Bottom line…it’s thick paint. Some “batches” may be a bit different…blah blah.
Again…move forward…!
The other thing is this…Set Fast may not have as many “solids” in it…it will spray a bit easier.
Again…it’s paint…made by humans.
Keep the machine as clean as possible. ( I never clean mine. )
And…at the very least…you have some experience under your belt.
The machine is a good machine. The paint is good too.
How’s all that?
DanHello Friend
First…thanks for the post.
Next…you’re right…it’s dirt.
There’s a check ball down low on the pump. When it gets stuck…the pump will just cycle.
Next…this trouble exists in other pumps too…to the point…there’s a red, plunger thing…like a relief plug…that we pull…to free up that ball. ( Our 3900s don’t have that…! )
Bottom line…you’re right…it’s dirt…well…old paint.
Here’s a thing I was told…seriously…it’s a test…or…it’s the equivalent to the “relief valve” on some simple airless sprayers…
I was told…”rap” on the “J” tube just under the pump. That should free that ball. My first thought was; “really”…?
I took a rubber mallet and lightly smacked the J tube. It immediately stopped cycling and built pressure. That said…you can’t be going around with a hammer in your pocket.
Bottom line…clean the machine best you can.
Also…I use Xylene after I use Acetone. It’s a little more aggressive when it’s cleaning. I may even let it sit a few minutes.
Last resort…take a few parts apart. Maybe disassemble from the sprocket nut. ( I am not bad with a wrench…but it’s been too long since I looked at that particular exploded view.
Last…Sherwin Williams carries the Graco parts. There’s a replacement J tube. I just don;t remember if that lower section has the ball in it or it’s just above. Check that out. Maybe replacing the entire thing may be best…easiest.
Let me know.
DanHello Friend
How are you?
First…let me say a caution type thing…
Whenever anyone wants a “different” color…= other than White or Yellow…I say one of two things…
1) Let me get a color close to that. “Traffic Paint” cannot be easily tinted.
…or…
2) No.
Here’s a story…I had a Bar and Grill needing Green stripes. I asked…can I just get close to Green? It’ll be a mix of Blue and Yellow…best we can. Maybe “Grass Green”…? The client said…absolutely…all is well.
Another story…I had a guy wanting Pink. He was a Periodontist. He said…I want the Pink to be the same color as your gums. I stated…I can’t guarantee I can get the exact color you’re picturing. It’ll just be a mix of Red and White.
He said…just make some and bring it by for approval.
I said…No.
Bottom line…2 things…
1) I cannot be the one responsible for guessing what shade the client wants.
2) I should not be the one totally on the hook for that work…cost…time…etc.
3) “Traffic Paint” cannot be tinted to anything. To be tinted to “anything”…you need a clear base to start…or a deep base…for darker colors…to start. Traffic Paint comes already White or Yellow.
Next…knowing this…you decide. Maybe your client is ok with a slightly different shade…maybe not…etc.
Next…I have a personal policy. If I am about to do some job that is a “one off” type job…then the entire cost is in my bid.
In other words…I estimated 4 gallons for the “Green Bar and Grill”. I didn’t want to run out…so I had 10 made up. I put the entire cost of that Green paint into my bid. Why…?…because I surmised that I would never use the left over. That seemed fair to me. ( If a client wants Yellow…I charge for what I use. I can always use the left over on the next job. )
I hope that all makes sense.
I hope I helped.
Let me know how it works out.
DanHello Friend
First…thanks for the post.
Next…yes. But…certainly within your budget. And…there are the “wraps” you can get…also magnetic signs.
All said…it doesn’t have to be something complicated.
That said…I’ve been striping for 25 years and never had any advertisements on my truck or trailer.
A buddy is the same. He’s been striping for 28 years.
Bottom line…you decide. Either way is going to be fine.
Last…try to use the words; Pavement Marking or Stripe. If you only use; “striping”…there are plenty that think it says;
“striPPing”…and they may think you strip furniture or floors…or…send out girls…!
…just tryin’ to help…!
Friend…either way is fine.
I hope I helped.
Let me know.
Dan…you know what…?…
I know this was all posted a few years back…but…I am a fan of the Acetone…more now than then.
1) It dries right now…right now.
2) There’s no “pick up”. The worst thing is to block down a Stop Bar…( using another good paint… )…let it stay blocked down for a couple hours…open it up…and the first car puts tire marks on it. I’ve striped Stop Bars with Acetone…in an open lot….in Summer. I’ve looked around…no cars…and I drive off…well…ride off. And…I ride over the Bar. No marks.
In the cool Spring or Fall…same thing. Done. I am a believer.
Next…I fight the cost of Xylene by never cleaning my machine. I am not one of the big boys…but they never clean either. Argue if you will…I’ve had no troubles. Bottom line…extend the Season…try Acetone.
DanHey Rob…you are the best.
Thanks for the post too.
First…the gravity flow is the right choice. The pressurized bead dispensers are certainly out there…but, generally priced out of the “every day man’s” price range. And..most would argue they’re needed on windy, fast jobs = airports and truck mounted stripers. ( I am sure there’s an argument against that. ) Bottom line…I think you’re doing everything you can and doing it well.
Next…I also use the 321. I’ve also used the 323. Moving more quickly demands wide open gates for the dispenser. ( Mine are kinda wide open most of the time anyway. ( I also know there’s an argument for too many beads. ) That said…I’ve never been accused of using too many beads…!
Next…my best advice is probably…maybe…(2) coats…if you can. I’ve had that called out before. Beads in the second or “top” coat.
Bottom line…again…you’re probably fine on reflectivity…coverage…and down right “putting the pretty on it”.
And…most jobs we do will not require an inspector with the reflectivity gun. I know that may sound bad…as though we’re going to stiff someone…but we don’t. I am a believer in giving more than I get. It sounds like you are too.
Rob, I hope I’ve offered some help.
And…I am thinking every striper in the US would be doing the same = a good job and worrying a bit.
How’s that?
DanHello Friend…absolutely.
First…are you ready…?…I never clean my machine.
I know other stripers who never clean their machines.
…who has time…?
Next…mine will also sit with paint in it for days.
Or…the Yellow machine may be in use for days and the White machine sits.
Next…that’s how I keep the buying of Xylene to a minimum.
The “dirty” Xylene will separate in a day. Either use it again or skim it off…etc.
That’s it.
How’s that?
DanHello Friend
First…thanks for the post.
And…it’s not too much to ask for all 3…!
Here’s my rule…only the cutting agents touch each other.
In other words…if I have Latex in my machine…and I want to switch to Acetone…
First…I flush out the Latex, once with water. Then…I flush out the water with Xylene.
Then…then…I flush out the Xylene with the Acetone.
Something else…I always think in terms of; what do I want IN my machine.
I do not think in terms of…how do I get something OUT.
( You get something out by putting something in. )
Again…only the cutting agents touch each other.
Next…then…if I want to switch back to Latex…
First…I flush out the Acetone with Xylene.
Then…I flush out the Xylene with water.
THEN…I flush out the water with Latex.
Does that makes sense?
Next…if…if…I flush out water with Acetone…I get maybe (2) seconds of “silly string” coming from my gun…!
It isn’t a big deal…but…I believe it’s just the Acetone paint “touching” the water and “reacting”.
Yes, I’ve been on a job and had water in the machine. I had NO Xylene…! ( Dummy! ) So…I used the Acetone to flush out the water. Yes…I had silly sting looking stuff coming from the gun…for about (2) seconds…then the Acetone.
No big deal. All is well.
But…my rule…only the cutting agents touch each other.
How’s that?
And…I can flush out with as little as (2) gallons of whatever cutting agent I need.
Bottom line…it’s quick…easy…( flush once )…and I think…best.
I hope I helped.
Dan…will do, Friend.
The one I ordered is going to a buddy, a few states away.
I will certainly talk with him.
Next…I did email Titan.
…word is…in a perfect world…end of April, they’ll ship a few.
I’d trust that info.
We’ll stay in touch.
Thanks again for the post.
Dan
