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…crap…I’m not the best trouble shooter in the world.
I’d probably defer. Can you call the shop you referred to? Ask a few questions? Maybe this isn’t an isolated thing.
Beyond that…I’d try Graco.
Let me know though…once you get it fixed.
Dan…yeah…
I’m guessing it’s the actual toggle on the dashboard.
Flick it on and off. Twist it a little…MAKE it work. Then…we’ll know it’s the switch.
I doubt very much…it has anything to do with the pump…which is good news.
DanHello Surcoat
I’ve had the same problem…HAVE…the same problem.
I believe it’s the actual Toggle Switch.
So…try this…flip it on and off like you’re ticked off.
See if it comes on. I hope it does.
Next…I’m now too afraid to shut it off. SO…when I clean or cycle…I just throw the “Directional Big Boy Toggle Switch”…on the side.
In other words…I don’t shut the pump off any longer before I divert the pressure from the Primer to the Gun Line…and / or the other way around.
That said…it’s best to kinda hold onto the Primer Tube when going FROM the Gun Line TO the Primer Tube. Quick pressure to the Primer tube will cause it to “Pop a Wheelie”…completely out of the bucket. Trust me on that one…but it’s better than turning off the pump to switch Pressure direction…only to find out NOW the pump won’t come back on.
Next…of course…I could buy another switch.
Next…I do have a question…you said “nothing”…does that mean there’s no pumping going on either?…or is it pumping its brains out…but not building pressure?
DanHey Ruckus
…from here on out…it’s up to you.
It all sounds good…lines…clean…and it’s semi-local.
All we can really offer is our best advice. It’s kinda like buying a used car. Try your best and hope it works out. And…if it doesn’t…at least you’ve spent little…
But…with all do respect…if I…and I’m saying…me…if I couldn’t get the pump to work…or just see it lay down a stripe…personally…?…I think I’d pass.
Next…I know how over-priced the new Titans are in Canada. I’ve tried to set up a shipment more than once. It had a few glitches…but still…it was much less expensive…even after the Import Tax was applied and the shipping too.
( In the U.S., the 2800M is $2900.00 USD., new! )
Last…as a striper…
1) I don’t see this model being used by me or my comrades = competitors…which are long time buddies.
2) There is a line between saving money, starting slow…VS…spending a little more, having a familiar machine, having a service contract, exciting the customer…and…getting a great verbal recommendation from the customer…etc.
Bottom line…from here on out…I know this email goes “back and forth”…I wish I could give you a definitive answer…it’s up to you.
Keep in touch.
DanOK…I can’t make it out.
It looks like an Airless. But I can’t see the rest of the machine.
That said…the wheel base looks like a “Roll Master” from Newstripe.
Go to http://www.asphaltsealcoatingdirect.com/products/newstripe-rollmaster-5000
This is a page from Asphalt Seal Coating Direct. There’s a video that looks like this machine.
Next…the usage is important. Is it needed to spray lines on a grass field…for a Grade School…(once in a while) or…stripes on a public road…or…start a new side business?
Last…most machines that are sold are either worth half their original value or a little bit more…kinda like finding a rarey car in Grandma’s garage…or they’re worth $350.00 to $500.00. Then…maybe you can use it for parts…like I’ve done in the past…or put a few hundred dollars into the machine…like I’ve done in the past also…and use it as a good “second” machine.
I hope I helped.
DanSS
The “crisp” lines are shot from an Airless Machine.
The Converntionals will have 1/4″ if “fuzzy” at the edges…but…there is no “tapering” to a good amount in the middle. In other words…it’ll be an evenly dispersed line…all the way across.
Next…I have “Air Curtains” on mine…see my Video…at me site. These keep the edges more crisp.
NEXT…think this through…if there’s enough AIR to break up the LIQUID = paint…into SPRAY…good.
BUT…if the BALANCE between the paint and air is mis-matched…then the paint will WIN.
In other words…you’ll have a lot down the middle and not enough all the way across the width of the line.
So…try “upping” the Air a little to dispense the paint film evenly.
NOW…THINK IN REVERSE…if…again…if the “balance” between the air and paint is mis-matched and the AIR is winning…this is what the line will look like = think this through…the AIR will BLAST through the paint…splitting it like the RED SEA. In other words…VERY thin down the middle ONE INCH and much more paint along the edges. Get it? Don’t let the AIR blast so hard it drills through the paint stream…AND…don’t let the paint “win” the power struggle by putting MOST of the paint down the middle of the stripe.
Last…it should and can be 1/4″ fuzzy edges…sharpened by Air Curtains…and an evenly distributed amount of paint EVERY place els…along the width of the line.
So…either play with the Air pressure to the gun = Right Hand Gage…or add a splash of the appropriate “thinner”…to make the paint do what YOU want it to.
Make sense?
Dan
P.S. I’m headin’ out…I’ll check back later. And…SS…you’re close to getting it. Don’t quit.Hey SS
…yep…and…you have to stick your RIGHT pinky finger out too.
Seriously…couple things…
1) These guns come as a set…kinda…
…here’s what I mean…INSIDE them…
There is the Needle…a certain diameter…and a certain point at the end.
Then…there is the Fluid Nozzle…which is inside the Fluid CAP.
…again…(3) parts to the “assembly”…
Now…back to the Needle…which slams into the “certain sized” orifice, inside the Fluid Nozzle…( forget the cap right now…)
1) If it is a matched set…the taper of the Needle’s tip will fit perfectly into the Orifice of the Fluid Nozzle.
…so I’m asking…was it a new set?…hoping this would disallow any wrong parts with wrong parts. They’re probably fine…because it doesn’t happen always.
Next…you’ve checked properly…you checked to see if there was a small dog hair on the tip…prohibiting it from slamming into the Orifice…tight enough and at the right “matching” taper…to stop paint flow.
And…you found nothing…crap…I wish you would have!
Next…these are little things I’d try…because those two items are the only possible flaws…which is what I like about my Conventional = simple.
…so again…little things…
1) My Right Side Air Pressure Gage is around 40 lbs. That amount of air at that pressure serves 2 purposes…
A) Atomize the paint at the Fluid Nozzle…
B) Also…to lift and set the Needle.
If…and again…if…your pressure is at 30 lbs…bump it to 35 Lbs. Maybe that will help.
Next…I remember when I had a tip that leaked…I freaked…BUT…it was two drops on a 40 car parking lot.
Don’t tell anyone what I’m about to say…after I got my feet wet…two drops didn’t bother me at all. The lot was done and pretty…don’t look back.
So…my question is this…how much of a leak? Is it a “trail”…from the top of one line to the bottom of the next? Or…two small droplets?
Last…when I do have a small piece of something…trying to come through the line…and either slowing paint or even clogging it…lift the QAW = “Quick as A Wink” = THE TRIGGER…! up and down…FIVE times as fast as you can…ONOFFONOFFONOFFONOFF…! That always cleared my debris…maybe it’ll help seat the tip or push through the crap that we may have missed…during cleaning.
Last…help me here…I’ve re-read the posts…are you still experimenting with water?…or have you moved to paint?
Next…you mentioned a Diaphragm on a Binks. Unless I’m out dated…the Diaphragm is on the Kelly and the Binks has none. OK…it has one that looks like a mushroom at the top…the Kelly has one that looks like a vertical Frisbee.
AND…the “Low Pressure Kelly Diaphragm” will need the (3) way valve moved up and down…repeatedly. Then stripe with Oil Based Paint….while the Binks 21…will only have to have the (3) valve UP and then just leave it alone. Go stripe your brains out…with water based paint.
These two bits of info will not have anything to do with trouble shooting the dripping.
But…let me know.
DanHey Laszlo
I put mine right at the outlet of the “Canister”…before the paint went into the Line..
2) Things…
A) I thought it was better because it would catch the impurities before they traveled all the way through the line.
B) There is a FLOW ARROW on the Filter. You must put the filter in the Line…the way the paint flows. Does that make sense? You’ll see an arrow. Just make sure that’s the way the paint is flowing through it.
Anyhow…I had to place mine at the beginning…because that was the way the Flow Arrow indicated and if I even tried to install it at the Gun End…the nuts and attachments would’ve made the filter backwards. SO…it worked out.
How’s that?
DanHello Laszlo
I did get your email. That looks exactly like mine…on my Titan. You have a Graco.
I have a Graco too…and I don’t have an In Line on it. So…so as not to purchase the wrong part…they are probably interchangeable…but then again…my Graco paint hose is a bigger diameter…anyhow…
…and since you’re in Africa…we don’t need to be unsure…try this site… http://www.PaintSprayersPlus.com
Ask for Jason. He carries everything.
I’ll probably talk to him today too. I’ll give him a heads up.
Let’s keep in touch.
AND…did you try those other fixes? Ids the machine spraying again?
DanHello SS
…yes…the pressure on the tank is good at 30…but…you’re right…that’s water.
SO…30 may work pushing paint also…but don’t be afraid to go to 40.
( If you talk to Jim at JCL…he is a big fan of 40 and 40. )
Next…on the Atomizer…it’s what ever it takes.
I’m usually around 40 lbs also. But…I’m not afraid to go to 50…and…when I spray stencils…sometimes 55.
I may also “up” the pressure on the stencils…I’m pushing Paint through a small diameter hose and farther…but try it first before you just increase pressure.
Next…if ti does come out “splatter”…two things…
1) Increase the Atomizer to break those LARGE droplets of paint…into smaller droplets of paint…that we can now call “SPRAY”!
OR…OR…OR…
2) Add a splash of appropriate “thinner”…either water for Latex…or Mineral Spirits for Alkyd = “Oil” based paint.
Again…if “thin” water can be turned into a spray using air pressure…then so can paint…but…paint is thicker…so again…either add more Atomizing Pressure…or “thin” = “reduce” = “cut” the paint. Read the label…some Paint MFG’s allow up to 20%. Some City workers add 50%…!…I only say a splash. This allows the paint molecules to relax and let go of each other so the Air Atomizer can do it’s job.
Bottom line…start at 30 and 30. Next…add a splash…try it again…add one more splash…try it again…next…up it to 30 and 40…try it again…then 30 and 45…try it again… One thing at a time. You’ll get the feel of it.
Next…put a piece of plastic or cardboard…on the ground…like a stencil. Spray a test shot onto the plastic…or cardboard. Measure it. I generally have around 5″ lines. If it’s too wide…lower the gun a half an inch. Try it again. My gun is about 5″ off the ground. Start there…but don’t be afraid to adjust.
Let me know.
DanHello Laszlo
First…Africa sounds great. I’ve never been there. Maybe one day.
Next…you had asked about Pressures. Yesterday I sprayed 7,000′ of Yellow Centerlines. I started with 2000 lbs. BUt then raised it to 2200 lbs. Again…that’s always going to be a range..depending on several “moving” factors. But again…I hope this helps.
Next…first…I commend you. You’re working hard. Good for you.
Next…I’m thinking it’s the paint or the change. So…yes…I would clean it too.
Next…I don’t have any pictures…but…try either the representative that sold you the machine…and if it’s a new machine to you…that person should be out there with you.
Next…then try http://www.Graco.com Click onto the International Sales or International Service…or International Suppliers. These people should actually carry these parts. These aren’t that un-common. These are very stockable parts.
Next…I’m going to guess now…If I bought a Hydraulic 200 from Graco…I’d imagine it cam with a gun that has a filter in the handle…?…or…even the filter already in the line…?
THe guess is because those pictures are the same ones I use in my “In Line” filter. So…where did you get those pictures. Can that source sell and ship to you?
Last…did you have any trouble prior to the switch in paint? If not…try something simple…clean the machine good. Strain some paint…different paint…and try again. If you’re good to go…then it was simply the paint. I would still pursue the proper In Line…or In The Gun Handle Filter…but at least we know it was the paint…or the machine needed a simple cleaning.
More…when you say “sand”…I’m thinking that’s just normal settling. Either try having it shaken…or you need to get a stir into a drill and still it up. I don’t believe this is the problem…but again…that’s normal if the paint sits either days…or a week. Stir it or have it shaken. That “sand” is the hard particles that will be left when the liquids evaporate from the paint. Liquids are used to carry that “sand” or better said…”Solids” to the ground. We need those going to the ground…not staying in the bucket.
Next…when you said…you just started this business…I assumed the 200 HS was new. Is it?…or is it used?
AND…what type of Thinner did you use.
Here’s why…IF it was used…there were some particles in the lines. IF you’re using something “Hotter” than Mineral Spirits…like Acetone…the “Hotter” “thinners” will dissolve the old flakes or paint that normally occur in the used machines…and THAT is the source of the clogs…over and over again.
Read this through…try some things…keep in touch.
DanHey Laszlo
…just got in…striping…football game…blah blah blah…
How are you?
I’m sure the local paint store will either have a filter on hand or can order one easily.
Also…look for the local shop that simply fixes Pressure Washers…Airless Sprayers…and certainly a Striping Machine is an Airless Sprayer…except on wheels. They too, should easily be able to get any make and model in…if they don’t already have one in stock.
Next…my pressure varies…but only a little
When I’m striping over new, fresh asphalt…I’m sometimes up around 2200 – 2500. Whatever it takes to get volume…at the speed I choose…while considering that particular surface. Kinda like the difference between painting my living room wall vs. painting an outside stucco wall…for the first time. Maybe on the stucco we go slower and use more paint…which would translate to striping…we go slower…use a bigger tip…to allow more paint to flow…OR turn the pressure up…to get more paint to flow…again considering the situation.
I also use a higher pressure when I’ “Temporary Striping” over a newly milled road. I know the stripes only need to last 2 days…but still…I want certain coverage on this rough type surface…so…keep bumping the pressure to match the speed I choose…( Speed = me on my “buggy” ).
Next…on a newly seal coated…( which I do very few of these days )…I’m thinking as low as 1600…but more likely 1800. BUT…2 things…
1) That surface is more than likely kinda smooth…because it just accepted 2 coats of seal. SO…the paint will sit up and you’ll get good coverage.
2) Sometimes I’d recommend moving to a 317 tip…especially for a newer person.
Now…that said…if you walk slower…= a new striper person…over seal…with a smaller tip…maybe 1600 lbs is enough. BUT…if you gain some confidence and start walking faster…then you may need to bump the pressure to 1900 lbs while using the 317…or 1708…= .017 orifice. Make sense?
Next…if you have a .019 tip and you use 1900 lbs…you probably will be walking faster…that’s a higher amount of pressure coming through a bigger orifice…over a smooth surface…get it?
Think of it as a garden hose. Big diameter?…water turned on slightly?…then spray = water the garden slowly…water turned on full?…you can water more quickly…smaller diameter garden hose…big outlet?…etc…
Does that help?
I hope. Keep in touch.
Dan…laszlo…it all sounds good.
I’m starting to think bad batch of paint…or debris in the lines.
So…tips look good…filter is in place…haven’t used Acetone…which will dissolve old paint inside the lines and clog for about 2 weeks…!
So…I’d switch paint buckets…clean it out…try again.
Let me know.
Dan
P.S. Yes…I have an “In Line Filter. It is a small tube…about the size of a normal cigar. Inside is the small filter…about the size of a small cigarette. Mine attached right at the outlet of the pump…then the 25′ line attached right there.
Some machines have that capability of a filter in the gun. I like mine…nothing gets in the hose. Either is fine though. Whatever it’s designed for…do it.
You’ll be good to go.
DanLaszlo
I’ve also know that using Acetone will “eat” = dissolve the older paint inside the lines and then those pieces will give you fits = clogs.
I didn’t thin the CR…but again…I used a Conventional.
I don’t think thinning will alleviate the particles that clog the tip either. But…?
Here are some more ideas.
1) Change the paint…maybe it’s a bad bucket.
2) Change the lines…to brand new ones. I’m not saying that you used Acetone…but…I’m not too familiar with CR.
3) I installed an “In Line” filter, years ago. I almost never…never have a clog. Try that too.
That said…this doesn’t sound normal. I’ll bet the In Line filter won’t hurt…but I’m also thinking the solution is on of the other answers.
I hope this helped.
DanHello Sealcoat.
I am sorry for the delay.
I’ve used a “Conventional” for 17 years. Love it. Maybe Jim at http://www.jclequipment.com has one.
That said…we can talk. I still have mine. I don’t use it as much any more. But it’s totally kept up and updated.
I still love it.
Next…you mentioned Binks. I’ve had a Binks 21 too.
Now…make sure the Pet Cock Valve just at the botton of the tank is closed.
Bleed all air.
Disconnect the paint line at the GUN.
Next…get pressure on the paint tank. I know you have water in it.
Point the Paint Line away and into a bucket.
SLOWLY open the Pet Cock Valve at the bottom of the tank. Water should come flying through the line. Then shut it off.
If this happens…we now know that water is reaching the gun…and I would suspect that the gun is either malfunctioning or clogged.
OR…the air actuator is not allowing the gun to open.
One thing at a time…
Let me know.
Dan
P.S. I have a (3) Part Series on these machine on my site too.
Let me know.
