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Hey Johnny
I switch to Sherwin Williams Hot Line. …a few reasons…
1) It has 67% solids. To me…that means less water to evaporate…so…less time to dry.
2) The “Water” is some weird combination of …”water” and “liquid butane”…or something. ( Think of Rubbing Alcohol. It just makes it evaporate more quickly…regardless of temperature…and / or…humidity. )
Try it.
Next…also I switch to a larger tip. Since the paint has so many solids in it…a .019 gets clogged. I’ve been told a .021 will probably work…a .023 will. I’ve been using a .023…never had any troubles.
Put those two things together and you’ll be ready for more work.
NEXT…Sherwin Williams also has an Acetone based paint. REMEMBER…the “Liquid”…no ,matter what it is…is ONLY necessary to “carry” the solids particles to the ground. ( We just cannot spray flakes…! ) THEN…that liquid needs to evaporate…leaving the solids behind. ( A note…the SW Hot Line has 67%. So…technically…it should last longer than a paint having 47% or 57%. …TECHNICALLY…but…we cannot control each environment…from wear…weather…sweepers…blahblah… )
Back to Acetone. If you’ve had any paint inside your gun previous to using Acetone…and then leave the Acetone in that machine for a day or two…the actual ACETONE…will dissolve that old residue paint…and then…!…when you go to spray the next time…clog…clog…spit…spit…etc.
I’ve never used Acetone in my Latex machines. I’d like to buy a new machine though…just for the Acetone. I’ve subbed out a few late season jobs to other crews when Acetone is a must.
That’s it…
Hot Line…or Acetone. Ups and downs.
And…Acetone dries right now in almost any weather…temp or condition.
I’ve used Hot Line for the below 40s range…low humidity and some sunshine.
Call me if you want.
Danaaaagggghhhh…I missed this.
I’m sorry.
Legally…?…probably the Vendor’s License.
I’d call the State Offices or my CPA. ( It’s been 18 years for me. )
That said…it’s not daunting. It’s not even expensive. I believe to file for a Trade Name is $25.00 and that’s probably not even required. Next…the Vendor’s License may be 50.00…? Things like that.
Check what I’ve written…it may be different in your state. In Ohio…it was simple.
I hope that kinda helps. AND…I do apologize for not getting this earlier.
Last…there may be a class in the Memphis Expo that addresses something like that. I haven’t looked though. But…if you can make it to that Expo in February…all the manufacturers will be thee and classes on how to do the work. There’s always a class or two also on the “Business” side of it.
Let me know.
DanHey DNicholson
…first…with an Airless.
Next…take the gun out from it’s cradle. Then…loosen that “Horizontal” arm.
Next…spin it around…so the cradle is now almost right beside the back tire.
Next…re-install the gun into it’s cradle. Be careful with the cable.
SO…the gun is now going to spray…almost right beside the rear tire…and since you’re moving forward…like you always do…the gun is actually spraying backwards too. Does that maker sense?
Next…pull the trigger. AND…pull the “other” trigger that releases the front tire to roam. DO NOT lift up the front…NO WHEELIES…!
Next…wander around spraying water. You’ll be amazed.
It’s that simple.
NOW…as an experiment…put the gun cradle back up front…where it came from…and replace the gun…just like you’re going to spray a typical line. NOW…pull the trigger and also the “other” trigger…to release the front tire. AND TURN. You’ll see that the line diminishes to NOTHING…if you try it this way.
SO…simply put…remove the gun…spin the horizontal arm around…replace the gun…be careful with the cable.
Spray away…releasing the front tire.
Last…this still takes practice…but it’s a blast. I just sprayed a 30′ curve. It was beautiful. I’ve also sprayed 16 Tether Ball courts without breaking any sweat. ( It’s harder to follow a given line. Go slower. )
Try it with water…you’ll love it.
How’s that?
DanHey Stripe Guy
I think technically the answer is Yes…but…be careful with that.
I don’t worry too much about mil thickness. I “put it down” = spray paint…as if it were mine…because it is.
I don’t think that flaking is a result of too thick either. It sounds like bad paint…bad adhesion…cool weather…etc.
I’ve never had flaking.
Next…350′ is only the result of one part of the formula…and…it[‘s a guide. What were looking for…again…is coverage. If the lot is rough…you’ll need to go slower…or…increase the pressure…or…use a tip with a bigger orifice…or…a combination of the aforementioned.
I tend to walk slower…or ride slower. I may get 325′. That said…on a newer lot…that has just had (2) coats of Sealer…I’ll get more. AND…in accordance with your question…I may get different footages from one Re-stripe to another.
Next…after the job…maybe I’ll figure out my paint usage. My Graco 3900 has the dashboard that will keep track of all that.
What I really want to know is if I’ve given my client a little more than they’ve paid for. So…if and when I check my quantities…as long as I’m close…and as long as I’m happy with the coverage…I’m good to go.
Next…for bidding purposes I do figure at the 350′ mark.
( You should see how much I put down when the road has been milled off and the striping is only temporary…! )
Stripe Guy…50’…here or there isn’t going to make you or break you either. AND…I’ll bet the flaking was a result of a mistake or a risk gone bad. So…trust yourself. Take a look at the stripe you’re putting down. Are you please with it? AND…at the end of a few jobs…are you in the neighborhood of 350′ per gallon…consistently? If so…you’re doing fine.
How’s all that?
DanHey Randy
Yes…just plain old Anti-Freeze…but I do buy the kind that says Green…or something like that.
THAT said…I don’t know if it’s poisonous…but I’m not going to drink it. It should say all that on the bottle.
Next…I switched to using SW Hotline. It dries quickly…even in cool weather.
You may get more jobs in that way.
Next…there is Acetone too…from SW…you can use it even later in the Season. BUT…Acetone is a stripper. If you let it sit inside your machine…overnight…( some people…like me…DO NOT clean their machines regularly )…the Acetone in the Acetone paint will have a chance to dissolve the old residue paint inside your lines…etc…and those pieces will clog the tip…over and over again.
You decide.
Next…when I spray Hotline I use a .023 Tip. It sprays well.
I’m not sure if that tip is big enough to allow the little pieces that the Acetone would loosen…through. Maybe it would.
Again…any of this will lengthen your season. Let me know how things work out…and…
Do not drink anything I mentioned…!
Keep in touch.
DanHey Stripe Guy
How are you?
1) I rarely clean my machine throughout the year. That’s not the best…but it’s arguable too.
2) There’s a mechanic somewhere that will tell you that water is the worst thing you can put in the machine.
Stripe Guy…I’m a licensed Airframe / Powerplant Mechanic. I know what they’re referring to. BUT…I don’t worry about it.
Clean it out with whatever cleaning agent you need to…such as…water for Latex…Mineral Spirits for Oil Based paints…etc.
…press on…don’t be afraid.
Next…I do wash out my machine well at the end of the season. I use water a few times…and then I add Anti Freeze at the last cleaning. You’ll do fine.
Last…I do know of a buddy who never cleans out his machine. I’m not in that camp. Every once in a while…during the year…I’ll clean out my machine…well. AND…I always clean it out very well at the end and put Anti Freeze in it when I really think I’ve striped my last job of the season.
It’s worked for me for 17 years.
I hope that helps.
If you’re anywhere around Memphis TN in February…come to the Pavement Show.
…love to shake your hand.
See ya.
DanHey Johnny
How are you?
…check this out…
There’s a “Pavement Live” Expo in San Diego this coming November 30th through December 2…or 3rd…?
Google “pavementlive.com…San Diego…you’ll find it.
Next…I’ll be speaking 90 minutes at the EAST Pavement Expo this coming February 2012.
Next…there’s also an ATSSA show = American Traffic Safety Services Assn. That one is in Tampa FL,,,mid February.
How’s that?
All that said…I lived in Sunny Southern California…loved it…loved it.
Who knows?
Thanks Johnny.
Keep in touch. I hope I helped.
DanHey Stripe Guy 2
I appreciate this…two things:
1) You just keep going. You’re in there. You’re doing things. I cannot wait to see where you are in two seasons.
2) You post it. I appreciate the statement and it helps the forum…other people…etc…
Last…I hope to see you in Memphis. Sit in on my class. You may not need to hear everything…but you never know.
The floor will have all kinds of manufactures, there are other classes and Memphis has to be kinda fun.
Hope to see you.
And again…thanks for all this.
DanHello Randy
YES…! …how’s that?
The transition is easy. I love the oil based paints. I wish we could still use them in Ohio.
BUT…to save the earth…we outlawed them and invented Acetone. ( OK…I’m done with that… )
Next…I never did change out the tip either.
Next…I’ve only sprayed oil from my airless a few times…but again…it all went well. Same stuff. Same routine.
Next…the cleaning agent will be declared on the can…but it’s probably Mineral Spirits which is the same thing as Paint Thinner.
That said…check the cans…etc.
You’ll probably need 2-4 gallons to clean it well.
That said…if the job lapses over a few days…you don’t necessarily need to clean it out at the end of the day.
In other words…if you’re spraying Yellow…and the day ends…then just shut it down…pack up and go home.
The next day…if you’re starting with Yellow again…just unpack and fire it up.
Next…I do turn the tip sideways = 90 degrees. I think, in my puny mind, that this keeps all air from the system.
I know the top of the can may be semi open …but…it’s still ok…especially just over night.
Next…I’ve let mine sit for days.
Bottom line here…this will save you time in cleaning…in priming…and certainly in using up costly Mineral Spirits…which you can somewhat re-use…and…you won’t have as much waste to dispose of.
Randy…it’s all the same. You’ll like the oil.
Next…on the H/Cs…if you’re going to “Black then out”…use Blue…it’s prettier.
Snap a base line…put your stencil down…trace around it…slide it aside…hand roll the blue “block”…let it dry…put your stencil back on top of the Blue Block…spray the color that’s in the gun…done.
As far as time…it doesn’t matter. If I like you and your price is fair and you tell me 4 trips…after hours…I’d hire you.
If the other guy says 1 trip…I don’t really care. I’m not hiring a striper…or a machine…I’m hiring you.
BUT…I can re-stripe 10K in an evening…if all the stars are aligned…
But figure walking…one stall…a minute…? 1300 stalls…?…1300 minutes…?…21 hours…2 days…3 days…
Here’s how I’d present it; “I’ll make sure the lines are the same length. I’ll make sure they’re straight. It’ll take two nights…maybe three. I’ll finish up and send an Invoice.”
Next…if the lines are “lined up”…it may take less time. If there’s a bunch of stenciling…if there’s a bunch of “head In” stalls…a few things make a difference.
Last…if you feel more comfortable saying 3 nights…or 3 afternoons…depends on when they close…say 3.
Take your time. Break up the job into manageable sections…and think of it as a few smaller jobs…just stuck together.
You’ll do fine.
After you get the job…put the oil based into the gun. Spray a line at the shop…then make sure the paint won’t splash around too much…but then head for the job. That way, you’ll feel more comfortable starting.
I hope I helped.
OH…I’ll be giving a 90 minute class at the Memphis TN Pavement Expo. Attend…if you can. …love to shake your hand.
Keep in touch.
DanHey Stripe Guy…it might be.
I find certain paints have more of a tendency to “pick up” dirt from the car tires…and let it embed into the paint.
…that said…it just may be un-fair to you. Here’s why…some lots are terribly dirty…making it all worse.
Next…there’s a picture on my Facebook Page = “Dan Zurcher”…showing one paint was used for the “curved line” and another paint was used for the “hashed out” lines…inside the curved line. You can certainly tell the difference. AND…this was at a McDonald’s = busy…busy…lots of traffic.
SO…I’ll bet it was the paint…but don’t be hard on yourself. We all battle it.
Does that help?
DanHello Maverick
1) Yes. I do it. Many individuals do it, too.
I’ve left mine alone for days.
2) There is a certain order to things.
I always try to think of it, though, as “What do I want to put INTO my machine?”
THAT process is always the same. In other words…”Do I want to put paint into my machine?”
Then do it this way.
OR…
“Do I want to put water into my machine?”
Then do it the same way.
SO…here’s the order for the very first time you put ANYTHING into the machine.
THEN…emulate the process.
I put the siphon into …whatever…let’s say paint.
HOLD onto the primer tube…which is in a different bucket.
OPEN the valve…until paint comes through the primer tube. About 10 seconds.
CLOSE the valve. Put the primer into the same bucket as the siphon.
Hold onto the Primer and OPEN the valve.
Now the siphon is sucking paint and it’s then going right back into the same bucket = circulating.
Point the gun over the first bucket. ( The same bucket you just pulled the primer tube out of. )
Pull the trigger and hold.
THEN…and only then…CLOSE the valve. Paint will now begin to displace whatever is in the machine = let’s say water…water will begin to come out of the gun line…for about 15-20 seconds…because it’s just a longer line = a longer way to go…for the paint…so it’ll take a few seconds longer.
When paint starts to come through the gun…let go of the trigger and then OPEN the valve = releasing the pressure.
Now point the gun over the paint bucket and cautiously pull the trigger and hold. Then CLOSE the valve for the last time. Paint should be coming out of the gun…and simply going back into the paint bucket. Let go of the trigger. You’re ready to paint.
Re-place the tip guard assembly = the tip and the guard…!
Put the gun into the cradle or just start spraying stencils.
Now…let me re-read this.
I think it’s right.
Next…
1) I’ll be speaking at the Memphis TN Pavement Expo this coming February. Try to attend my class…if you want.
2) I have a video saying all this on my site.
Last…DO NOT stand directly over either bucket. If you forget to open the valve and pull the trigger…whatever is in the bucket you’re pointing down into…will BLAST out and up into your face. MAYBE even TWICE IN ONE DAY…! Read into that…!
Take your time.
Here’s a rule…while “cleaning” or whatever we want to call it…= putting paint into my gun…putting water into my gun…whatever…
If it’s NOT circulating … DO NOT pull the trigger.
OR…think of it like this…
If the pump is NOT pumping…do NOT pull the trigger
( same thing )
OK…last…last…call me if you need.
We can do this over the phone. Get by the machine…I’ll walk you through it…well…talk you through it.
OR…I’ll make another video.
…blahblah…
Hope to see you in TN.
Your friend.
Dan
…now I’m going to post this and re-read it.
See ya.
P.S. “Leaving water in the machine”…
You’ll hear some say…OMG don’t do it man…but, I’ve been fine.
YES…just like if you left your car sit for…years…?…grass will grow and maybe “Dis-similar metal” corrosion will occur between the piston walls and the piston rings…but let’s face it…they’re beveled…and I’m not worried…at all.
That said…I’m in a Winter state = OH. SO…sometimes…sometimes…when I know my machine will sit for a few days…AND…AND…I’ve not cleaned it for a FEW WEEKS…I’ll run water through it and ALSO splash some ANTI FREEZE into the water bucket. Yes…some things are RIGHT. Some things are WRONG…but most of life’s choices are GOOD, BETTER, BEST. So it is sometimes BEST to add a splash of lube…= plain old…easy to get…anti freeze. BUT…I do not clean mine every time. Nor do I add AF every time. Nope.
OK…last…last…last…if you put your machine up for the entire Winter…in an unheated room…I’ve used pure anti freeze. Some use kerosene. But…I always have AF in the garage. Let’s face it…it kept the car and truck good for all these years. AND…my Titan and my Graco and my Conventional are still going strong.
I hope that all helps.
Let me know.
DanHello Arcee
No. I’ve never done that.
I do keep an eye out for debris that will effect the line. AND…remember…it’s the debris that the tires will hit…it’s not just the debris that may lie where the line will be.
This too…I remember when I started…every lot seemed “rolly”. Don’t worry. Keep focused on going straight. That’s all you can do.
Keep in touch.
DanHello David
Take a look just above. There are (3) posts or so, all giving a few different reasons why we don’t seal roads.
I hope that helps.
Dan
