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Hello Volfan
…anytime.
Have you tried to send in the info to the actual Graco web site?
Next…I do not know the ingredients to seal coat…or the filter requirements, screen sizes, tip sizes…blahblah…
It may be one of those things that is possible but, you do not want to try. The money, risk of unknown, time involved…etc.
You may as well buy a squeegee.
Next…what do you use the 3400 for? Is it to stripe parking lots? Is it to spray decks…anything?
Let me know.
DanHey Arcee
…yes…crank everything up.
Crank the engine all the way.
Crank the pressure all the way.
Spray a line.
If it’s still there…we have two options…
1) “Reduce” the paint = “thin” the paint…
SO…add a splash of water…maybe a “half cup of coffee cup amount”…stir well…circulate…
Try another line. Try this method only two times = two “half cups”.
NEXT…change paints. If you
‘re using SW Hotline…it has 67% solid material in it. I don’t use it.
Try SW SET FAST…there are two types…
1) The type that has 57% solids…great paint.
2) The type that has 50% solids…great paint.
Next…make sure the tip is a 17 thousandth = .017″ = a 1708 designation…OR BIGGER…such as a .019 = 1908.
Bottom line…crank the engine…just like you’re going to mow grass…all the way up.
Crank the pressure all the way up.
If it’s still there…”reduce” no more than twice.
If it’s still there…change paints. Try one that is less in solid material.
AND…to make it a little easier to spray through the tip…try a .019 instead of a .017…though it should be fine with the .017.
Get back to me.
How’s that?
DanHello Volfan
Are you asking if you can use the Graco 3400 to spray Seal Coat material…in other words…
Do you want to spray Seal Coat material through the Graco 3400?
If that’s the question…please don’t do that.
Without checking the particulars…don’t do it.
You were right to go with your gut = “uneasy”.
Again…don’t do it.
Your friend.
DanHey Diamond
If you’re going to roll anything…I’d roll Black or a mix of Black into your White…making what ever shade of Grey you think is best. I’d use it to cover the existing numbers. Next…if you can…snap a base line along the bottom of all the stall. That way the new “black outs” will be aligned and pretty.
Then…I’d just spray my numbers on top.
Next…curves…yes…just slide the machine around the arch. BUT…perform a practice run…NOT because you need to see if you can stay on the line…BUT…you need to know if there’s any sand…or a pebble in your front tire’s way. If you hit that while forcing the striper around…it’ll slide abruptly. So…you’re actually seeing if you can make the arch…AND…if you need to remove debris from the path of the front tire. AND…when using this method…which is popular…DO NOT release the front tire. If you do…the 4″ line will lessen to 3″…etc…until it diminishes to a slit. It’s as if you’re simply swinging the gun sideways. It’ll produce a “slit” of a line.
Next…try this…unhook the gun from its cradle. Spin the horizontal bar…that holds the cradle…all the way around… until the cradle is back by the rear tire. Be careful with the gun cable. THEN re-insert the gun into its cradle. It’ll be spraying backwards as you now walk forward…as you always do. AND…it’ll almost be spraying right beside your rear tire. THEN…and only then…release the front tire and start the arch. This method will NOT allow the line width to diminish…and it does not matter how small the diameter is…you can spin circles. AND…with the gun spraying so far back…no rear tire can roll through wet paint.
NEXT…you must try this with water. Put water in the machine…spray a tight circle by releasing the front tire…while having the gun “out front”. You’ll see how the line gets very thin…narrow…very fast.
THEN…spin the arm around…you’ll love it. When I had 12 tether ball circles to stripe…it was physically easy using the “spin the arm around” method.
Next…but…it still takes some talent. SO…practice with water…then go to the job…perform a practice run…then paint slowly…because…when the front tire is free…yes…it is squirrely.. Take your time.
Next…as far as the “lock the front tire to produce a certain arch” method…the only real dimensions I’ve ever used are on a basketball court. All the rest are on a street or Drive Thru. THEN…you have to try to match the existing…what if it’s not perfect? So, now you’re back to simply Re-striping what’s there. Just set yourself to Re-stripe what’s there. Use the “force the machine around” method…or…”spin the arm around” method.
LAST…you’re right…I can see the chalk line better if the paint is on the right side. I can just see through the cables and arms…blahblah…better. That’s all. Just remember…what ever side you begin striping on…stay on that same side. DO NOT think in terms of Left and Right. Thinks in terms of North and South…or pick a landmark…such as…”I’m always going to paint on the side of the line that the landmark is on”…such as the store…or the “street” side…trust me on that one. It obviously does not matter as much on a Re-stripe or even a “Re-stripe over Seal”…but on a Layout…it’s critical. You’ll avoid having one stall measure 9’4″ and the next measure 8’8”. Does that make sense?
OK…digest all this…keep in touch.
DanArcee
I use a good quality black latex…to mix with the white latex striping paint.
Whatever store you choose…buying one gallon is better than buying 5.
In other words…nope. Choose a good store…buy the paint…mix it to best shade you can…roll on.
How’s that?
DanHello Arcee
How are you?
Here’s what I’d do…go to either SW or PPG or Glidden or the local paint store…Lowe’s…? and buy a goolon of Black.
Next…take an existing gallon or so of your White striping paint.
Mix in some of the black…stir. Does it kinda look like the asphalt…? If not…add a little more and stir.
You’ll never get it to disappear…but I try to match the shade of the asphalt.
Next…same goes for the numbers. I can’t tell if you have to black out the existing or just spray new ones.
But…if you’re blacking out the existing…black out a nice rectangle…right where the new number will go.
Then…spray your numbers.
Next…I wouldn’t order any more numbers. Yes…the 1 will get sloppy…just wipe it off every 3-4 digits. You’ll be fine.
Next…the 2 will also get a little sloppy when you hit the 20’s…personally…I have a few sets on numbers…I’d probably grab 1 set and go.
THAT SAID…I have a set of numbers that I’ll put on eBay. There’s small divit missing from the 2…you’ll see it.
I’ll sell this as a second.
I’ll put it up later.
Next…I have a VISITORS and I have a VISITOR.
VISITOR is correct English. That’s it. That’s all. You cannot get 2 visitors cars on there…but you can get two visitors in one car in that stall…blahblah. If you need a PLURAL VISITORS…let me know. Again…I’ve seen both…tomato … tomAHto…you decide.
I hope that helps.
Let me know.
P.S. Black out nicely. Even put your stencil right where it belongs…trace around the perimeter…slide it aside…hand roll the interior…greyish / black…in a nice square or rectangle. It’ll look nice. Then…spray yours back on top…kinda like doing a Blue Block…but using grey / black that you mixed…to save money.
See ya.
DanHey Diamond
…all good to hear…glad it went well for you.
Next…I hand paint my Blue Blocks. I lay my stencil down …trace around it…slide it aside…and hand roll the Blue Block.
1) I don’t have to put Blue in my machine.
2) It dries while I’m doing something else.
Try that one day.
Get SW to take a 5 of White Latex Traffic Paint.
Pop the little plastic “cork” thing off the lid. ADD 14 to 20 ounces of Blue Tint. Shake…you’re done.
Next…get a new 5 gallon bucket. Pour 2 gallons of this Blue into it. THEN…work from this new bucket.
1) It’s lighter and easier to carry around.
2) When you’re done rolling 2,3,4,5,6 H/C Blue Blocks…store the 9″ roller and pad…right down into the bucket.
( If you tried to store the roller handle and pad in the first bucket…it would be buried alive…! )
Again…just work from the second bucket. When it becomes a little low…add to it.
AND…here’s the other reason…ONCE in a GREAT white…you’ll need to spray Blue Lines…aaarrrggghhh.
BUT…you’ll have an uncontaminated 3 gallons or so in the first bucket. Cool…?
SO…keep the first bucket uncontaminated…work from the second bucket.
( when you hand roll…debris will stick to the roller pad. Then when you dip it into the bucket again…THAT paint is not full of small rocks…maybe grass…blahblah. )
I hope that all helps. It’s worked for me for over a decade.
Keep in touch.
DanStripe Guy 2
Here’s what I say…
I can’t. There’s no way I can put it into words and there are too many uncontrollable variables.
1) Traffic patterns are different at different places and they may change.
People will cut across a double Yellow Lane Line at a Drive Thru.
Things will wear unevenly…then what do we do? Do I “Re-Stripe” just the worn place?…or the entire job?
2) Winters may be harsher than normal. Salt, Snow Plows and Sweepers all play a part in the “Wear and Tear” category.
I can’t. I’m sorry. I can’t.
Next…the only thing I can do is this…I’ll double the price. Call me on the last day…I’ll Re-Stripe it.
Next…the only time we offer any type of a warranty is when we Shot Blast a concrete floor, apply a (2) part epoxy and cover it with a real clear coat.
Then it’s only against wear and tear, not abuse. And it’s only for a year.
Stripe guy 2…this is a deal breaker. Use what ever info I gave…some or all…as the discussion goes on.
Next…the only 2 or 3 times someone insisted…I passed on one, I doubled the price on the other two…so did everybody else. I didn’t get any of the jobs. It’s all good. I got other jobs. I also bid a floor. I was 50% done and they wanted a Warranty. I said no. I’m sorry. I would have offered one in advance if they would’ve gone with the Shot Blasting.
With all do respect…you’ll be called out on the last day to “touch up” the entire job. So…protect yourself…try to help the customer and just tell them. “All I can really do is add to the price.”
I hope this helps. I hope it protects you. I hope it sounds as nicely as I can put it. I don’t blame the customer for asking. It’s all good. No hard feelings.
Did I help?
DanToo cool, Diamond.
Thanks Brett.
Is there any particular reason that the wheels wobble? Is it that noticeable? Is it a different axle than the stock one?
Can you put it back to original…if so?
I have a buddy who sells Gracos.
Let me know.
Thanks again.
DiamondDiamond…too cool. Congrats.
I mean it. Nothing that’s done the first time is easy. And…you were probably sweating a few bullets.
Again…congrats on all of that.
Next…try this the next time…use a “Long Rope” to “long rope” the Center Lines.
Go to the “Extension Cord” aisle at Lowe’s…by an Orange Disk to store cord onto. Then go to the Rope aisle. Buy 200″ or more of 7/32″ Poly…or something like it. Put in onto the Disk…go pay for it all.
Next…
Even if you’re by yourself…take two buckets…or something…and use them to hold each end of the 200″ stretch of rope. Make sure it = the rope…is pulled tightly and straight. THEN…use it as your guide. YES…you may not cover the old line completely…but that ‘s because YOUR line is right…straight…and most of all…pretty.
I’ll contact Bret…he’s the big cheese around here…to see if we can get past the photo thing.
Diamond…keep in touch.
Dan
P.S. ( Hey Brett…are you there…? )…you know what…?…the base boards would work great on the wall too.
Buy (2) 10′ sections…or however high you need to go…stand them up…spray away…
Plastic stencils would want to fall down…!
…you know what else…?…for 400…you may want to somehow fix the two boards together…4″ apart or 5″ apart…like a stencil.
Anyhow…post a pic if you want…after the job.
DanHey dnicholson…yes.
There are several interpretations…
1) Cheap clear coat like the kind you’d spray on a wooden deck. That’s what I was told once. I don’t think that’s what the customer wants.
2) I think the customer is thinking about something that may resemble clear finger nail polish. THe intent is to make it easier to clean and keep the line Yellow.
SO…talk to Glidden. They have a Urethane that’s called…Devthane…? It also has a Converter that comes with it as a kit. 379…?
The nice thing is that the Converter is in a Quart can…not one gallon to one gallon. ( It’s a little cheaper. I know the customer has to buy it all…but still. The mix is 4 parts Urethane to 1 part Converter. )
3) They may also have a one part type too. I think it’s called Devflex…? …or maybe True Glaze…? Check me on those two.
I hope that get you started.
Next…a little over 1 or two years ago…I know it was in June…Akzo-Nobel bought ICI paint…which owned Glidden.
AKZO changed all the ICI stores BACK TO the Glidden name. NOW…all the paint cans say GLIDDEN…!
Here’s my point…if you ask for those brand names or lines…it may be called something else.
Next…buy from the same MFG. SW, PPG…Glidden…blahblahblah…
If you buy a one part Urethane that is rock hard and shiny…or a two part…cool. But…I need to know that the clear coat won’t blister, lift or screw up my Yellow line that I just put down. aaahhh.
Again…I hope that helps.
Dan
P.S. If you want to talk about Shot Blasting…I’ve done the work. Let me know.
DanHello dnicholson
A buddy of mine carries base board…some people call it moulding…? It’s just cheap wood from Lowe’s. It’s 3″ x 96″. He cuts it into 3′, 4′ or 5′ sections…and uses it for those hard to get places. It’s simply used instead of tape.
As far as vertically goes…I spray arrows and floor numbers onto a parking garage wall semi-regularly. If that’s what you mean…I just use the same ol’ stencil that I’d use on the ground…especially if there are 400. Cleaning is easier.
I like the 125 Mil. It stands up…and I mean literally stands UP and doesn’t bend and hang down when I’m trying to spray it.
Low Density Polyethylene Plastic is best.
That said…I’m not too sure I have it right…what do you mean by “400”…? Is it 400 stencils on walls?
Last…these tend to be smaller than the parking lot stencils. I use brown jersey gloves when I hold the stencil in place.
Anyhow…I hope that helps somehow.
DanHey Diamond…you’re welcome.
And…just a note…I rarely begin a job…”right up front”.
If there’s a place to start at the back…I do. Sometimes the first line needs a little adjustment…etc.
Your thinking is right on track. AND…if you add to it that yo’re a first timer…you’re doing great.
I’ll keep in touch.
Dan
