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I agree with Arcee. With all do respect…if a striper showed up on a job of mine with an upside down can…I’d be polite…but I can’t let that happen.
Next…that said…if it gets you into the business…sheepishly, I say…kinda…ok.
But…keep your eye out for an Airless. Move up quickly.
You know what…never mind. Really try to purchase an Airless.
I’ll help in any way I can.
Keep in touch.
Dan
P.S. Why are we on this thread?
…you know what…?…never mind…it’s all good.
See ya.uh-oh…
I’d first be afraid that the striping would be equally “wobblestone”.
How “cobblestone” is it? Can you make a good looking stripe?
I wouldn’t be too concerned about the paint.
I’d just make sure the client knew that the lines may very well be a bit “4 wheel drive” looking.
Again…I’d use latex striping. OR…I’d walk away. Be polite…but…walking away is on the table.
Keep in touch.
DanArcee…I’m tellin’ ya…I cannot wait to hear about your first job.
Congrats on all this.
That said…I need to blast out of here…but…keep in touch on that first job.
Let me know when it is.
DanArcee
…anytime…you’re welcome.
Next…try a 1708 tip. It sprays a 4″ line through a .017″ orifice.
It’ll allow you to walk a little slower than you normally walk. Take you time…get good coverage.
Next…I use .019″ tips. I can walk a little faster. The paint is coming out an orifice .002″ larger. I know that sounds like a tiny, little difference…but it makes a difference.
Next…these tips are designed to give that width at a PRESUPPOSED 12″ height. ( I don’t spray from 12″ up. ) So…a long time ago, I started using tips that produce a 6″ wide fan at a PRESUPPOSED 12″ height. I just lower the gun closer to the ground. It’s that simple. NOW…the wind isn’t a factor and…if the old lines are 4 1/2″ or 5″ wide…I can easily slide my gun up 1/4″ and still get wide enough to cover the old, existing wider lines.
Next…that said…I just sold an 800…a small machine, to a guy. He’s getting a nice 4″ line at around 8″ off the ground.
SO…here’s my best advice…get the standard 1708. AND…buy a 1712 too. Start with the 1708. If all is well…carry on. Don’t look back. IF…IF…you wish to see what the 1712 will do…try it.
The last (2) numbers indicate the width…but you need to divide by (2). SO…a 1708 = a .017″ orifice spraying a 4″ line.
A 1712 = a .017″ orifice spraying a 6″ line. Make sense?
Next…when you get more confident…you may very well switch to spraying with a .019″ orifice. Again…you can walk a little faster and still give good coverage.
Think of a garden hose. Turn the water all the way on. Then…water the lawn using a garden hose that’s 1/2″ in diameter. You’ll move kinda slowly, taking your time. THEN…switch to a 1″ garden hose and water the lawn a little more quickly. Get it?
Last…which ever tip you use…1708, 1712, 1908, 1912…give good coverage. If the lot is rough…you’ll use a little more paint. If it’s newer, smooth…you’ll use a normal amount. Again…think of painting the interior wall of you home vs. painting the stucco of an exterior wall. No big deal. Simple stuff. Think it through.
Bottom line…start with the 1708…take your time.
Next…buy a good Set Fast from Sherwin Williams. BUT…DO NOT buy the “Hotline”. It will clog tips. It’s good for airports or “Conventional” Machines. Ask for PN = Part Number 8000-52904 for the Yellow. Ask for PN 8000-01786 for the White.
Those paints are also high in “Solid Particles”…56%…but not so high as to clog the tips.
OR…try 8000-03246 for the Yellow and 8000-03238 for the White. These have 50% solids and should be a little less cost. BUT…they’re fine paints, too.
Again…but NOT the “Hotline”.
NEXT…I don’t sweep. I never sweep. That said…I carry a “Street Broom”. It has “killer” bristles. I also carry a wire brush that looks like a 12″ “toothbrush”. Arcee, I’m only going to brush off…or sweep off…whatever is ON THE LINE. IF…IF a customer wants me to sweep a parking lot…that’s different bid.
Keep in touch.
DanArcee
How are you?
…STOP…! That’s not what you think…!
Show me what it is. Take a pic…email it to me.
Next…jump ahead of me and try this number…800.526.5362.
That’s the “Technical Service” number to Titan.
…aaaggghhh…but there’s no time…it’s 4:40 PM EDT. I’ll call.
Oil only goes into (2) places.
1) The actual ENGINE
2) Right where you see the piston rod of the PUMP. It’s behind a little “Faceplate”. ( It kinda looks and acts like a face guard to a football helmet. It’s about 2-3 inches wide and maybe one inch tall. )
Remove two little screws. ( You’ll find that the holes on the Faceplate are slotted. )
There may be a black rubber cover that the rod goes up and down through. Lift it up if so. And again…just put the piston lube oil in that little “cupped” area. Then slide the black rubber cover back down the piston rod and replace the Faceplate.
That’s it. Just those two places.
How’s that?
Let me know.
DanHey Brian
In 17 years…I’ve stopped once. I hope that gives perspective.
It seems that 15 MPH gusts may be the warning sign for me.
Next…when you buy a new airless machine it always comes with a tip. So far, the tips are 4″ tips. In other words…the tip is designed to spray a 4″ wide line at a presupposed 12″ height. I don’t own a 4″ tip. Neither do any of my buddies. We all use tips that produce a 6″ line at a presupposed 12″ height…then…we just lower the gun closer to the ground…for a few reasons:
1) WIND…! If the wind gusts and you’re 12″ off the ground…the spray appears to do the Hula Dance…! ( You really don’t want that. )
2) If the parking lot or street, floor, playground etc…is bumpy in any way…that will translate out to the gun and the line will wiggle. ( Again…if you’re 12″ off the ground. )
3) Here’s my big reason though…if you’re Re-striping a lot that has been striped before…and you need to cover a 4″ wide line…ok…but what if the line is 4.5″…or 5″ wide? Then what?…lift the gun?…how high? You can’t That vertical post is only so high. ( You cannot slide the gun much higher. ) SO…with a tip that will accommodate a 6″ wide line…it’s easier to get wider lines covered. Does that make sense? I hope that makes sense.
Next…I have “Air Curtains” on my Conventional. Wind has never been a problem…except when I’m going right into it. Then the edges will be even fuzzier. Here’s when you need to decide. Should I stop?…pause?… My Binks 21 and my “Diaphragm” gun is low enough to the ground and both produces plenty of pressure to get the paint down. Again…wind…isn’t a factor on only very few jobs…very few.
Next…paint doesn’t spray out and then float away prior to hitting the ground. It hits the ground hard and then bounces up at an angle…hitting the portion of somebody’s car tire that’s on the ground…only. In other words…if there’s a car sitting in the stall and it’s 6″ away from the line…maybe…maybe…the very bottom of that car’s tire will get sprinkled with paint. Again…the paint is hitting the ground and then bouncing up and out…and going under the Air Curtain. On the Airless…I don’t see that and I can get even closer to the cars.
Bottom line…the call is your’s. Is it a Corvette? You decide…!
But again…paint doesn’t float around wet.
Last…if you’re looking for a MPH…I’d say 20…sustained…bothers me…BUT…you decide.
There’s too many other variables involved to give a hard and fast rule.
I hope that helps.
Let me know.
DanHello Victor
Just for the record…we talked via phone a couple days ago.
I’m not sure about the Airlessco. I’ve heard…not the best stories. AND…I predict…well…never mind.
Next…the 2800M is obsolete. That said…I believe there may be one out there somewhere. But…it may be like trying to find the Corvette in Grandma’s garage. The 2850 has replaced it. The Graco 3400 is also a proven machine. Either one is a great place to start.
Next…if you find a used machine…I would want to see it in action. If you came to my shop to buy a used machine off me…I would have it ready with water. Fire it up. Spray some lines. Work through all the bells and whistles…etc. So…treat the experience like buying a used car. I wouldn’t buy it unless I could at least drive it around the block.
And, by the way…I don’t have a used one to sell. Sorry. Keep looking though.
It was good talking to you.
Keep in touch.
DanHey jsmith7
…anytime. I still have my conventional. I may move the ball hitch back 7″ or so. I use it for “Temporary Striping”, along with my Graco, on certain roads…that’s it though. I use my Graco for everything else.
Keep in touch.
DanHey you know what…?
I always thought you could go back and buy the Auto Layout after you bought the Striper…in case you wanted it then.
I’ve even told a couple people that. I forget who told me…doesn’t matter.
I don’t think that’s right. I heard a guy named Dave…a Graco Rep…giving a Presentation / Seminar…and he said…”you have to buy it at the same time you choose the machine”. I believe you need the correct “Mother Board”.
It’s not just the apparatus that holds the spray can, mount…etc… Again…I believe he said…”it’s in the Mother Board, too”.
I’m thinking it has to be a package deal.
So…if you want the Auto Layout…or think you may want it…check first on that.
And…I’m callin’ Dave @ Graco.
See ya.
Dan…the forum world we say…hmmm…but…
Sport…we’ve never met… I don’t know you. If you want to ride my coat tails…ride my coat tails.
If you have an opinion for every post…offer it. But if you want to stalk my name…To the rest of you…if you want to buy another tip…try it. I sell them. But I don’t want to sell them. Just go to SW or PPG or Glidden and ask for a discount. You probably get one anyway. That’s the best way…quickest way…easiest way.
But…if you do…
1) Save your stencils for last. If you switch tips every time you pass a stencil…it’s time.
2) If you choose to go this route…make sure the tip that you remove gets tossed into water or the appropriate cleaning agent. You don’t want the paint…inside the tip to dry…when it’s in your pocket.
3) When I spray a 12″ NO PARKING…I spray in such a way that covers the “N” in one pass. Spray top to bottom. Spray at a height that allows the Left side of the “Paint Fan” to hit just to the Left side of the “N”…and the Right Side of the “Paint Fan” to hit just to the Right side of the “N”. There aren’t “overlapping marks”. With a “spray” tip though…I’d be more concerned that the outsides of the letter isn’t covered with enough paint. The “middle” might be. Then you may have to hit it again.
( AND…you don’t need to buy my video either…it’s all here. )
4) As far as spraying an Arrow…I’m not sure anyone changes a tip just for these. We hit them so many times…the customer is happy…they last…etc. The only time you have any “overlapping” is when you don’t put enough down in the first place. ( Like one, thin coat. ) And…nobody puts down “not enough”.
5) As far as STOP Bars go…yes…you’ll see the “Overlap”. But…I don’t switch tips. Spray (5) 5″ lines…OVERLAPPING to get the 24″ Stop Bar…blahblah. ( You won’t get the sharp edges here…that you need…with a “Spray Tip”. )
Then…if you want…take the gun out of the cradle and spray 90 degrees to the lines…a second coat…and mitigate the look.
5) As far as quantities go…I don’t get hung up here. Pretend the lots is yours. I sprayed a late night large job. I stopped several times to look closely at the “coverage”. I was giving plenty. BUT…I’m not broke either. In other words…I did not miscalculate volumes. Jobs are different. Some are over seal. You may get 400′ per. Some are over asphalt older than all of us. It’s rough. I’m not going to even think about trying to get 400′ per. What I’m going to do…is pretend the job belongs to my Dad…or a buddy…or you. I’ll make sure you have great coverage. Give coverage. That said…when the job is done…check how you did. I’m always close or even closer = right on.
Keep your money in your pocket. I use Striping Tips. I passed 1000 jobs…last century.
See ya.Hey Stripe Guy
Yes…I don’t change anything.
The only thing here…just make sure it’s a striping tip…not a painting tip. The difference is the design of the actual orifice. One is a rectangle…giving an even dispersement of paint all the way across…( picture the paint coming through a rectangle…)
The painting tip has an orifice the shape of a football. When the paint tries to come through “short side” of the orifice…or the “points”…picture a cats pupil…it can’t. SO…less volume is applied…that way…when you overlap…like you’re spraying a house…or wall…the paint isn’t necessarily (2) coats thick.
Anyhow…I never change the tip…you’re fine. And again…just make sure it’s a “Striping” tip.
I believe the Graco Tips are Yellow…just like a Centerline…and the Titan tips have a (4) digit designation…not a (3) digit designation.
( All that said…I’ll bet you knew that…)
See ya.
Dan
P.S. …crap…just in case I misunderstood your question…I use a 6″ wide tip. It sprays a 6″ wide pattern at an assumed height of 12″.
I then lower my gun closer to the ground. I don’t own a 4″ tip. Whenever you spray an actual 12″ off the ground…too much shimmy, too much wind…and…if the job is a Re-stripe…and the existing line is 4.5″ wide…then what…?…lift the gun higher…!? First…you can only go so high…it’s still produces a 4″ line…and then…you’ll run out of POST…!
I also use a .019″ orifice.
I find the .017 is too thin…BUT…I move pretty quickly. ( I also use .021. On a Temporary Striping job…I move even more quickly…! )
So…if you’re a beginner…on a Re-stripe…maybe try a .017 with a 6″ wide capability. They’re also good for “Over Seal” striping. BUT…take a .019 too. You might find that you like it better. ( that’s all on my video )
Let me know if that helped.
DanHello Schaef
…a couple things…
1) I’m sorry, I failed to address this…
We measure the actual letter from top to bottom. 12″ tall, 14″ tall, 6″ tall…etc. What ever you want.
That said…you’ll see different widths out there…of the letters themselves. Just make sure you’re ordering the width you’d like.
Then…compare plastic thickness…( all of my personal stencils, which I still use kinda daily are 125 Mil thick = 1/8th inch thick ). No 60 Mil for stripers.
Next…be careful of the “Edge Distance”. Some MFGs offer a 2″ Edge Distance. I offer 3″.
It’s not only about “Over Spray Protection”. It’s about strength, too.
Then…compare price.
Bottom line…letter height, letter width, plastic thickness, edge distance, price.
( Edge distance is also sometimes disclosed as “Overall Height”. Mine would be 18″ “Overall height”…on a 12” Tall NO PARKING lettering. )Next…
Stay relaxed. I don’t even own a “Mother of all Uniform Traffic Control Devices”…Manual.
Ok…the M stands for Manual.
Here’s why…you’re off road.
1) I try to put back what the customer had. If it’s an 18″…and I have one…cool. If I don’t…just ask ’em…”Do you mind if I put back a 24″? It’s a little bigger. Same price. I’ll space them out nicely…not too many, that the place looks mucked up…not too few, that they fail to do the job. I’ll make it look nice.” 999 out of 1000 are nice people who trust you. THAT’s why you get the job. And…notice…I didn’t ask if they wanted a 24″ letter in the WIDE font…or a 24″ letter in the NARROW font.
Schaef, you’re doing fine.
Next…on my bid…I will make the statement that I’ll be converting the existing H/C stencils into “Blue Block” design. And, Schaef, I don’t disclose that mine is 36″ or 39″. And…I don’t put a White Border around it…unless it had one. No Biggee.
2) I’ve striped miles of roads. Almost always I have a drawing. That’s someone else job. I just go by the drawing. If it calls out for an 11″ “Suicide” lane…guess what…?…Uncle Dan Paints it 11′ wide. Sometimes the drawing calls for a 10′ curb lane…sometimes an 11′ curb lane…sometimes 12′.
3) As far as the D.O.T. = Department of Transportation; my DOT = Ohio…= ODOT. Florida = “F” DOT. Texas would be TDOT…etc.
YES…when we all travel on public streets and highways…we should adopt a single standard. I do own an 8″ ONLY, Arrows…etc…that I use in the street.
Next…that said…whenever I have a job…such as a strip mall or a large hospital…that has a “Ring Road”…or a nice big ol’ “Drive Lane”…I try to adopt these standards…not out of fear of reprisal…but I just think of it as “what if it were mine”? “What would be best?” I don’t sweat it. I will make the Stop Bars 24″ wide. I will also use probably just the top half of my 12′ and 13′ arrows. Unless of course it’s a Re-Stripe. Then I’ll decide…it that existing Directional Arrow ok?…or can I make it better?
Next…here’s the beauty too…the road is probably, already some multiple of 12′ wide. In other words…it’s already 24′ wide…or 36′ wide. If it’s 35′ wide…make the suicide a little wider then the “Curb Lanes”. That would be comfortable…etc…etc…etc… (…that’s a line from a movie…)
Bottom line…relax…you’re doin’ fine.
DanHello Schaef
First…I say there is no standard.
Next…in my area…everything “seems” to be 12″ lettering. ( I started with 10″ lettering, then switched to 12″. )
In California 8″ lettering rules the world.
BUT…it is all up to the owner.
I manufacture stencils. I have 4″ all the way up to 12 Feet !
There are NO PARKING stencils for the curb = 4″. There are 24″ NO PARKING stencils for the Fire Lane.
I’ve seen 12″ NO PARKING in the Fire Lane too.
And again…I’ve seen Red Curbs with White NO PARKING on the Curb’s tread.
( Remember, stenciling is not enforceable by law. The stencil may be faded, covered with snow, under water…etc. So…”hard signs” are really needed. Such as NO PARKING FIRE LANE…or H/C signs in a bollard…in the stall too. That said…I’ve just finished striping a Menard’s. It’s the size of a Lowe’s or Home Depot. It had NO H/C stencils…ONLY H/C hard signs in the stalls. )
Next…you can order a one piece…or two piece. First…the 12″ can all be put onto one piece of plastic. The plastic is 8′ long.
1) You can then use it as a one piece or…spray the NO…then slide the “PARKING” part to the right about …any…dimension you want…say three feet…and spray that.
2) When you get into the 18″ lettering and certainly the 24″ lettering…there isn’t enough room to put the entire NO PARKING onto the sheet of plastic. So…we make it a two piece. Then again…you decide the spacing between the words. And you can “stack” them if you want. ( That’s why I manufacture DRIVE THRU in two pieces. Do what looks best for that job. )
Last…the phrase “Standard” is subjective. I’ve had a 36″ H/C for 17 years. THEN someone says “Standard 39″ H/C”. And the world begins to think that the STANDARD IS 39″. ( remember, we live in American…bigger is better AND…39″ is simply one meter AND…it may as well be 39″…because if I cut two H/C stencils from ONE sheet…I have waste that I throw away. SO…I might as well make the H/C bigger! ) OR…why not just give more “Edge Distance”? blahblah…
Next…if some architect calls out a SIX FOOT H/C…!…paint it. Have you seen Wal Mart?.
Next…I’ve also seen “Home Made” stencils. These are totally understandable. BUT…I…nor you…can match everything down there ( on the pavement ).
Bottom line…buy a good, long lasting stencil. Black their’s out…nicely. Put yours down…and do a nice job. Space the words nicely. Measure if you want to. But take a look at it too. ( Maybe you shouldn’t straddle the ramp. Scoot it over. )
OK…last…last…I’ve seen 42″ tall lettering with a 9″ wide letter. What? Picture that. Now, if that’s what they want…cool. But I just cut a 42″ STOP with MY STANDARD 17″ wide lettering. It just looks much better. And, my prices are still low. And, by the way…they actually wanted a 48″ tall STOP. I suggested a 42″ tall letter. WHY? Not because of any “standard”…but price. I cannot cut a one piece 48″ tall letter from a 48″ wide piece of plastic. I can cut 4 individual letters though. SO…let’s go with a 42” tall letter. Less cost to you and it’s done.
OK…last,last,last…if you’re on a Public road, there may be “requirements”…actual “drawings” that tell you what to do. Also, there is a D.O.T. “Standard”. “Department of Transportation”. THAT needs to be…but on the neighborhood business…you’ll see everything.
Pretend it is your parking lot. That’s my best advice. Well…and know this…you’re doing fine. Press on.
DanHello Stripe Guy 2
I do. I always do…ok…maybe not always…but kinda always.
AND…I put mine = the chalk line…on the side.
Next… preferably on the “Left” side. I can just see it better…you snap whatever side you want.
Next…if I miss by a quarter inch…DON’T CORRECT…just stay one quarter inch off the chalk line…AND KEEP GOING STRAIGHT…!
Next…and don’t try to “make up” the quarter inch on the next line either. relax…do your best. Go straight. Use the chalk line as a guide. You’ll do well.
How’s that?
DanHello Schaef
First…SW Hotline is an excellent paint. High in solids…quick dry…blahblah…
SO…next…I don’t think it was the paint.
Next…the temp…only “maybe”. I use Hotline when it’s called out for Taxi Runways. Again…it’s high on “solid particles” and dries more quickly. So I’m going to deduce that if you weren’t shivering …the weather was fine too. But I want to emphasize…if it’s going to be chilly outside…I’ll purposefully switch to Fast Dry or this Hotline.
Last…you’re correct on not quite knowing if it was wear and tear…and / or…it could be a few different things…or a conglomerate of those things…but if’s it’s not failing everywhere…I think you’ll be fine.
And…for the record…I’ve striped in snow flurries…Thanksgiving night…at a mall…waving to all the shoppers standing in line…and the paint is still there.
Something else…if the gas station had a concrete surface…it’s sometimes harder to get paint to stick to concrete. You’ll see it missing from bridges and we all know it just won’t stick…over time…to concrete wheel stops. Again…I’ll think the weather can be slightly ruled out. And…I’ll think you did fine.
Dan
